This diner on the lobby level of the new Apurva Kempinski Bali resort at Nusa Dua could well be dishing up the holiday island’s best Japanese. It’s an outpost of OKU in the group’s Jakarta property but the chic pale timber fit-out, smallish scale and warm service create the feel of a stand-alone bistro. Best perches are at stools by the counter facing the open kitchen where chef Deni Koswara and his brigade prepare inventive and delicate creations, best ordered from two degustation menus of four or six courses. Flavours are sometimes spicy, combinations unexpected. Even the edamame soy beans are spruced with truffle salt, the tempura has a lightly curried edge, salads are dressed with white sesame, an angel hair pasta dish is a riff on traditional udon and Australian wagyu features in top-end selections. Let the sake wine sommelier suggest his spot-on matchings.